TIPS & TOOLS
We, as a business, want to be sustainable and environmentally friendly and so to make this happen we have put most pattern images, and some technique videos, on our website here, rather than including them in individual pattern envelopes. The instruction sheets do have easy-to-follow written step-by-step instructions of course. This saves on paper, ink etc. You can use this library of information whenever you need it.
It’s easy to access too – just type the technique you are interested in, in the search box, for example: patch pocket, then press enter. The result will appear either as images or as a video.
Body Measurements & tracing: our standards are the are result of many studies in the UK. better known internationally advertised methods but some adjustments may required in the fitting for individuals. Measure your chest , waist and hip before start and then check your size on the chosen pattern, back of the cover. please take once size bigger if you are in between given sizes on our chart. for example if your chest is 37, then you must choose size 38 on the chart.
Tracing Patterns Pieces: Open the printed paper pattern inside the cover and select your guided dotted line on the top left-hands side of sheet matching your measurements. Chest size is given but look at the back of the cover for the Hip size matching for a trousers or lower body garments. Put a circle around this dotted line with your pencil before moving to next level.
Please use dot and cross paper the chart and put a circle around the correct doted line. to trace off each pattern piece on to a Dot & cross paper. . Please mark all your notches, grain lines and pocket positions( Drill holes to your paper patterns to Mark your pattern pieces) in every piece of pattern. notches are all around the body giving you a guide to seam allowances, fold line, sleeves insertions, when constructing any garment. ( please use a Screw puncher to punch hole trough with a rubber mat under, just inside the line about every 5cm along these lines, now you can chalk mark trough this holes you made. when cutting fabric on fold with your pattern pieces your pattern is rightside up when marking the other piece , un pin and take the pattern off carefully
Preparing fabric before cutting out. Press your fabric on fold selvedge to selvedge. lay your pattern pieces along the grain line, using your measuring tape getting your pattern pieces are parrallel to the selvedge. Now pin your pattern to hold it firmly, head and the tail of the arrow distance to selvedge must be equal at all time. you can extend grain line on large pattern piece if you need.
This example is a shirt pattern placed on a wider piece of cloth. It's not cut on fold there for you have cut differently. First mark rightside up pieces of the pattern with chalk.
Next mark the pattern pieces wrong side up with chalk get a left and a right panels of the garment and top and under collars and cuffs.
Any piece that was on the fold need to mark only once rightside up
For example the back main body is a pattern piece were
Cut out the pattern pieces without any extra fabric, because we have added required seam allowances for each pattern piece. Snip in every notch about 0.5cm. mark your pocket positions with tailors tacks.( drill your pattern pieces with a screw puncture with a rubber matt ) take a contras colour thread to your hand sewing needle, pass a stitch through the screw punched holes earlier leaving approximately 2-3 cm tail at beginning and end, now un pinned your pattern pieces and lift. separate fabric layers no 1.5cm maximum and clip the tread between, leaving thread tufts on each layer of fabric.
If you are making a toile you may just marking with a chalk, but use the above at least for one pocket to get a bit of practice. Packet positions are marked base on a standard mannequin. if you want changes made to this positions, please cut out a pocket shape without any allowances on a card and hold and move until your find the new potions fit to you. now chalk ark the toile and transfer new potions to the dot and cross paper after you have completed all of the fitting
Our videos and images are below. We aim to cover some techniques needed to help you finish our designs. If there is something you are looking for but can’t find, please do get in touch so we can find a way to help you and share the knowledge with everyone else too.
ESSENTIAL SEWING EQUIPMENT
The following list of equipment will help you make your own bespoke garments more easily and with professional results
• Marking pens • Transparent ruler. • Tape measure. • Good quality Dressmaking Shears. • Paper Scissors • Pattern Notcher (not essential but useful). • Tailor’s ham and Sleeve board • Screw puncher • Point Turner/Creaser • Calico for sampling and customising fit. • Fabric and trimmings: please have a look at the back of each pattern cover for the fabric and timings requirements