TIPS & TOOLS

We, as a business, want to be sustainable and environmentally friendly and so to make this happen we have put most pattern images, and some technique videos, on our website here, rather than including them in individual pattern envelopes. The instruction sheets do have easy-to-follow written step-by-step instructions of course. This saves on paper, ink etc.  You can use this library of information whenever you need it.

It’s easy to access too – just type the technique you are interested in, in the search box, for example: patch pocket, then press enter. The result will appear either as images or as a video. 

  • Body Measurements & tracing: our standards are the are result of many studies and conferences. better known internationally advertised methods but some adjustments may required in the fitting for individuals. Measure your chest , waist and hip before  start and then check your size  on the chosen pattern, back of the cover. please take once size bigger if you are in between given sizes on our chart. for example if your chest is 37, then you must choose size 38 on the chart.

  • Tracing Patterns Pieces: open the printed paper pattern inside the cover and select your guided dotted line on the top left, hand side of sheet, matching your measurements. Put a circle with your pencil to remember before moving to next level. Please use dot and cross paper to trace off each pattern piece. Please mark all your notches, grain lines and pocket positions in every piece of pattern. notches are all around the body giving you a guide to seam allowances, fold line, sleeves insertions, when constructing any garment. ( please use a Screw puncher to punch hole trough with a rubber mat under, just inside the line about every 5cm along these lines.

  • Cutting fabric. press your fabric on fold, selvedge to selvedge. lay your pattern pieces along the grain line and pin it to both layer of the fabric to hold it firmly ( grain line is the arrow pointing in each pattern piece, head and the tail of the arrow distance to selvedge must be equal at all time. you can extend grain line, if you pin a long piece of pattern to make it easier.

  •  Cut out the pattern pieces without any extra fabric, we have added required seam allowances for each pattern piece.  Snip in every notch about 0.5cm. mark your pocket positions with tailors tacks take a contras colour thread to your hand sewing needle, pass a stitch through the screw punched holes earlier leaving approximately 2-3 cm tail at beginning and end, now un pinned your pattern pieces and lift. separate fabric layers no 1.5cm maximum and clip the tread between, leaving thread tufts on each layer of fabric.

    If you are making a toile you may just marking with a chalk, but use the above at least for one pocket to get a bit of practice. Packet positions are marked base on a standard mannequin. if you want changes made to this positions, please cut out a pocket shape without any allowances on a card and hold and move until your find the new potions fit to you. now chalk ark the toile and transfer new potions to the dot and cross paper after you have completed all of the fittings.

  • More construction points are on its way, please bare with us 

  • Upper body ​  

  • Front: Mark any  buttonholes and darts, pocket positions with chalk or tack with a contras colour.

  • Back: this can be on fold or two panels. some time darts on either side complete your panels. close your dart.

  • Once piece sleeve:  Sleeve head is bigger than than the armhole of the body. so you need to pucker the sleeve head.

  • Twin notch at the back of the sleeve and the single notches at the front  need to mark on your fabric piece.  Inside the seam allowance, sew running stich from the twin notch to the front furthers single notch, leave some thread hanging in the starting point and at end point. pull the top thread from front to back to make small puckers.

  • This way you can shrink the sleeve head to  make the shape of the  shoulder joint as well as meet the fabric requirement for the armhole of the bodies before setting the sleeve. If you have French seams or making a top a shirt, now it's time to add the sleeves to the bodies(please check French seam section before attending ), but if you are doing a normal seam on coat a jacket, close your under arm seams and side seams then set the sleeves to the bodies.    

  • Hem

  • cuff

  • collars

  • facing 

  • lining

  • Lower body 

  • front 

  • back

  • side 

  • waist band

  • gathers 

  • elastic 

  • buttonholes 

  • lining 

Our videos and images are below. We aim to cover some techniques needed to help you finish our designs. If there is something you are looking for but can’t find, please do get in touch so we can find a way to help you and share the knowledge with everyone else too. 

 
ESSENTIAL SEWING EQUIPMENT

The following list of equipment will help you make your own bespoke garments more easily and with professional results

 

• Marking pens  • Transparent ruler. • Tape measure. • Good quality Dressmaking Shears. • Paper Scissors  • Pattern Notcher (not essential but useful). • Tailor’s ham and Sleeve board • Screw puncher   • Point Turner/Creaser  • Calico for sampling and customising fit. • Fabric and trimmings: please have a look at the back of each pattern cover for the fabric and timings requirements

 
Workshops 

Do we make customised patterns for individual orders?


Yes we make dot and cross pattern pieces and a sample garments in calico for the fashion industry and indeed, any one with special needs or specific alterations.




Are you only designing for men?


Our initial collection is for men, but we will be adding designs for women and children as well.




Are the patterns multi-size?


Customised pattern to order is one of but we can grade at a cost.




Are the instructions suitable for home dressmakers?


Yes, they are written with the home dressmaker, using a domestic sewing machine and overlocker in mind. We have also produced several videos and images to help support the construction which can be found on the Tips & Tools page of this site.