Updated: Feb 17
Pattern are made in 5 sizes in our studio, corresponding to the neck, chest, waist , and hip measurements . method of making these are which have been established sinc1e the early 1900. this explain the length of the upper body is very similar for most of us, but the body circumferences of the above mentioned arias what changes the size variants mainly. We use combination of standard measures to make the basic body and then drape that on to mannequin to make them work.
If your pattern is slightly loose, you can take the access form each side seam or expand the dart. another example, in purchasing a shirt pattern there are maybe 5 sizes but you are in-between size, which some time happens. then the best thing to go to the nearest size up. so this give you and inch deferent to take out between two side seams, distributed around two front and two back side seams.
Now base on the above example, the given sizes are nearly your size as possible, since all sizes are not standardize, since errors are possible (though not probable) since you may have grown or lost weight, and lastly added or decreased fullness depending on the style of garment, entire pattern should be tested. The easiest method of testing the pattern is tracing off the bodies and cut them out of muslin or calico and tack them along the seam allowances once, (no decorative stitches) mark all the pockets and other details on the front of the garment with a contras colour chalk. then put them on and pin the the center front opening to see how they fit.
Add fullness if required to the side seam by opening the side seams and adding a piece of fabric along the seams. dived the extra amount halfway by a chalk or pencil line and cut open this line mark or extend the paper pattern you traced and add seams allowance to complete.
Enjoy customizing your pattern. stay at home and keep crafting
Bespoke pattern team