Soft Tailoring

Updated: Mar 30, 2021

This week's topic is Soft Tailoring, which is a set of techniques to help you shape your garments to the style you want.

This gives you a styling that is almost like made-to-measure but starts with a pre-made pattern, within which many adjustments can be made to suit individual requirements.

Techniques like baste and prick-stitching come in useful when doing soft tailoring, and as an introduction to these techniques I have chosen the Waistcoat.

I suggest making this with a medium-weight Harris tweed, block-fusing the entire fabric, and distributing access fabric around the three panels of the design, and the front dart to give a better fit, suite the individual.

A waistcoat is a great start to soft tailoring. This design covers Darts, Panels, Facings, Lining Fusing, Vent Pockets and Buttonholes, as well as Prick-Stitching to make sure seams allowances lie flat.

This skill set will be very useful when moving on to making larger and more complicated garments such as jackets and coats.

Soft tailoring does require some special equipment, so this week's tools and tips are:

1) A good hand-sewing needle. Number 8-10. These are shorter length needles .Shorter ones are a lot better, although they take time to get used to.

2) You need to use a Cutting Table that comes up to waist height. If you are using an ordinary table, you might like to get some table blocks. They are easy and cheap to order online.

3) Fabric supplies suitable for this design: Rachel John Extreme Textiles

4) Fusible Interlining - Lady Sew-&-Sew

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