Beginners in soft tailoring and Dressmaking, or pattern making should not expect or be expected to master all the principles in a short course, when talking up on a small project, but each project in our pattern collection are design to give few lessons or by few brief experiences. If ever, they should master some of the simplest fundamentals. if you are aware of any problems and sense difficulties to solved in the first lessons, make up your mind to take more lessons:
unpick, stem press, easing, lengthen and shorten hems of garments and their sleeves.
introduce darts, but don't widen your shoulders and the front, and back bodies of the patterns. if in case you have seen the sample you mad is tighter, then take the next size up.
Sleeve fits in to a very complicated are and it's top part with all the shape is called the sleeve head or crown. Crown height is is higher that the armhole depth. so you have to gather form front to back notches before inserting the leave to the garment. straight bodies we used looked same shapes from the front and back crown height, but they are different from front to the back.
good patterns should allow room to the cross back, when making the pattern( 14cm below the nape and then across the back) this and then keeping about about 1 cm extra in length in the shoulder( only the back shoulders and when you don't have york) easing this extra amount evenly to your front shoulders will give your shoulders the curve shape from above your shoulder blades.
Neckline are difficult no to fraying fabric trough out sewing the rest of the garment. run a stitch inside the neckline seam allowances. soon you have joined front and back shoulders. steam press and lay your pattern front and back to see if it's streched. if it is streched pull the top tread you sew gently and puckers evenly around neck and steam press to meet the correct neckline.
I hope yo keep safe and focus on you soft tailoring skills.
from the pattern maker Janaka Managai