Updated: Mar 17, 2021
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This week I am writing about how to match striped and checked fabrics so that the stripes/checks meet up along the seams.
This is a simple design with very little detailing - it is better not to use a complex design with many pattern pieces to begin with.
If using a viscose fabric, use French seams. If using a fabric of medium to heavier weight, you need to use an over locker or a Hong Kong finish.
First: Cut out your pattern pieces with all the notches and pocket positions and grainlines onto tissue paper.
The back pattern must be on fold. This means that you cut out one pattern piece for the entire back, with L and R seams and both shoulders in it.
Now press your fabric. Avoid folding your fabric in half. Try to keep it flat.
Second: Marking the pattern pieces to show where the stripes/checks are situated:
Lay the front R pattern on the grain line of the fabric, and mark the points where the stripes/checks meet the centre and side seams.
Place your front and back side seams together.
Now mark the R arm pattern in the same way. Transfer the same markings to the L arm piece by laying it on top of the R arm pattern and matching the markings.
Cutting: Now you have marked all the pieces of the pattern with the points where the stripes/checks will meet the seams, you can proceed to cutting out the fabric.
Lay the pattern piece for the R front right side up on the fabric so that the stripes/checks on the fabric match with the markings you have made on the pattern.
To get the fabric cut for the L hand side of the pattern to match exactly, turn the R hand pattern wrong side up, and match the markings to the Stripes/checks on the fabric.
As you have kept the pattern for the back flat or on fold, lay it on the fabric and align the markings with the fabric design.
To cut the fabric for the sleeves, follow the same method as for the two halves of the front: cut the fabric for the R sleeve, carefully matching the markings you made along the underarm seams. Then flip the pattern the wrong side up, and match the relevant markings . for the L arm.
This Week's Tips:
1) Tissue paper or Dot and Cross paper are very useful, especially for this sort of design. Burda or at Wiliamgee.
2) For fabrics with checks and stripes: Dotnstripes.co.uk